There are moments when the soul craves an escape, a journey not just across miles, but through memory itself. This past week, my mind wandered back to a family trip from over a decade ago, a voyage to the quiet beach-town of Murud Janjira. While the calendar may have changed since our 2014 visit, the town’s timeless appeal endures. A mere 150-kilometre drive from the bustling heart of Mumbai, the journey remains a rewarding experience, a winding passage through rustic old towns and sleepy villages that seem to belong to another era.
As you approach Murud, the landscape puts on a spectacular performance. The road curves, and suddenly the beautiful coastline becomes visible on one side while the imposing ghats of the Western Ghats flank the other. It is a sight that enlivens the spirit, and as the waves begin to lash the white sandy beaches, any lingering fatigue from the drive evaporates, replaced by a crescendo of pre-arrival excitement.
First Impressions: An Unassuming Paradise
Then, as now, the entrance to Murud town is heralded by a nondescript post, a fittingly humble welcome to a place that values substance over show. The two-kilometre-long beach remains surprisingly clean, covered by firm white sand interspersed with shades of black—remnants of silt left behind each time the sea recedes. The water itself still flaunts a dark hue, likely from the colour of the silt that lies beneath.
One thing that has thankfully seen some change is safety. Back on our visit, we noted the absence of lifeguards. However, following a tragic incident some years ago, authorities have made efforts to station trained lifeguards along the beach, a welcome and necessary addition for any visitor frolicking in the waves. Still, the Arabian Sea demands respect, and designated danger zones should always be heeded. As dusk sets in, the main event remains unchanged by time: the sunset is a beautiful spectacle that bathes the entire landscape in myriad hues of gold and orange.
The Crown Jewel: Exploring the Murud-Janjira Sea Fort
No trip to Murud is complete without paying homage to its primary attraction: the magnificent Murud-Janjira Fort. Standing impregnable on an oval-shaped rock off the coast, this 17th-century sea fort is a marvel of military architecture. Its name itself, derived from the Arabic “Jazeera” for island, speaks to its unique identity.
Reaching the fort is an adventure in itself. From the nearby Rajapuri jetty, a short drive from Murud beach, you’ll find local sailboats ready to ferry you across the water. The 15-minute boat ride offers stunning panoramic views, allowing you to appreciate the fort’s sheer scale as you approach.
Once inside, you are transported to another century. Despite being in ruins, the fort’s layout—with its 26 imposing bastions, secret passages, and officer’s quarters—tells a story of resilience. It is famous for having never been conquered, withstanding attacks from the Marathas, Portuguese, and British alike. Look out for the three colossal cannons—Kalal Bangdi, Chavri, and Landa Kasam—silent witnesses to the fort’s formidable past. Remarkably, even surrounded by saltwater, the fort contains two natural freshwater ponds, a testament to the ingenuity of its builders.
The Golden Swan: A Resort That Endures
Our home for this journey was the Golden Swan Beach Resort, and I was pleased to see from recent visitor reviews that its charm endures. We were fondly taken aback at the choice of dishes available, and it seems the food remains a highlight for many, though some now mention that the variety could be enhanced. The core offerings of Indian Tandoori, Chinese, and spicy Konkani cuisine are still a major draw.
We opted for an AC deluxe cottage, which was not only decent but provided true value for money. These spacious rooms and clean bathrooms are still praised by families today. While alcohol is still not served, the freedom to bring your own and enjoy a drink at your private sit-out remains a valued perk.
The resort’s direct beach access is still one of its best features. While the bicycles we hired back then may have seen better days, the core activities on the beach have expanded. Today, local operators offer a thrilling array of water sports, including parasailing and banana boat rides, right on the beach—a more adventurous option than the simple horse rides of our time.
A Taste of the Konkan: Local Cuisine to Savour
While the resort food is reliable, a trip to the Konkan coast is incomplete without sampling the local fare. The cuisine here is a delightful celebration of coconut, rice, and fresh seafood. Be sure to try Sol Kadhi, a refreshing pink-hued cooler made from kokum fruit and coconut milk, which acts as the perfect digestif. For a hearty meal, look for a classic Fish Thali, which typically includes a fried catch of the day, a tangy fish curry, rice, and fluffy bhakri (rice flour flatbread). Don’t miss out on Bombil Fry (Bombay Duck), a local delicacy fried to crispy perfection.
Visitor’s Guide: Planning Your Trip
How to Get There:
From Mumbai (approx. 150 km):
The most scenic route is by car, a journey of about 4-5 hours. Alternatively, you can take a train to Roha, the nearest major railway station, and then hire a local taxi or auto-rickshaw for the final leg of the journey. State transport buses also run regularly from Mumbai to Murud.
From Pune (approx. 160 km):
Driving is the most convenient option, taking about 4-5 hours. The train route involves reaching Lonavala and then taking a taxi, which can be a longer alternative.
Best Time to Visit:
The ideal time to visit Murud Janjira is during the post-monsoon and winter months, from October to February. The weather during this period is pleasant and cool, perfect for sightseeing and beach activities. The summer months (March to May) can be hot and humid, while the monsoon season (June to September) brings heavy rains that can make the sea rough and disrupt boat services to the fort.
A Timeless, Tranquil Escape
Murud Janjira remains a place to hibernate when you desperately need a break from the rigours of daily life. It offers a rare blend of rich history and absolute tranquillity. Our trip in 2014 laid down a beautiful memory, and it’s heartening to see that while the town has subtly evolved for the better, its soul—that of a peaceful, unassuming haven by a not-so-tempestuous sea—remains wonderfully intact.